FYI: crate motors and parts

[fred]

since i'm done with helping any one person, i figured i would share!!! 1st. the whole time i helped jack jr we never cheated and there was NEVER any titanium on the car, NONE!!! so here's a list of what we did have: stage IV stewart pump=2+hp saved, cv products LOW drag ps pump=2+ hp saved, 1 belt - the w/p-crank belt is nice insurance but a lot of drag, 17" plastic fan with the rad moved back so we only had a 2 1/2" spacer, 2- 1/2" spacers matched in the middle and matched at the carb like a s-sucker and matched to the intake[radiused the length of the divider xcept for about 3/8" where it met the s-sucker shape of the upper] smaller is better on the o.d. where they meet, we ran a taco 750 the whole time i helped...i just had to redo some of the sloppy work he did also a lot of fine tuning on the xclrater pump set up, i had ground 10g straps from the dist clamp to the back of the cyl heads, used cheap ass bosch platinum plugs[1.99 each and never had a problem] indexed wi the gap towards the intake valve[the largest part of the chamber], never ran the timing at more than 36 deg, once the motor had a few nights on it i would run 4 gts of 15/50 and 3 1/2 qts of 0/30...yes 0/30 - never hurt it!!!], also after break in i went to slightly heavier springs and would heat cycle the motor for a couple hours in the shop at about 2500 keeping the temp between 200 and 220 wi a piece of cardboard...this seemed to free them up[running it at a temp it never saw on the track makes all the parts expand and wear more clearance, once it wore at that temp, the friction would be less at a lower temp(always ran around 180 on the track)...i guess!?], leave the heat plenum crossover un-plugged - this lets heat out of the intake, the headers we got from ricky made a big difference and the motors always liked some back psi[also if you run standard sbc headers, you need to slot the holes to move them up...vortec heads have the exhaust runners .100 higher. the top of an exhaust port is the last place you want any restriction!!!], ran a deep cycle battery and a hot module and coil...but no msd. thats all i can think of on the motor. the rear: i think that if you go with a 4:11 rear[instead of a 4:86 like we ran] it will save another 5-10 horse especially if you get a REM finished R&P wi the ring EDM lightened, all angular contact ball bearings, i ran a 50/50 mix of shafers[sp] and light weight gm synthetic trans lube[about 20 weight!] in the rear wi no problems, also ran a 50/50 mix of shafers gear lube and shafers molly grease in all the hubs. thats enough for now! set up!? i'll post it some time, but you won't believe me!!! good luck!

[fred]

SET UP: this is for a teo low rack car and was the sat night set up...not the end of the year show. use the base teo set up with these xception; 1. if your driver weighs less than 200#s unbolt all the added weight xcept what i list and this is wi about 15 gals of fuel, bolt your weight back on in neutral spots after you scale like this! 2. bolt 40#s of lead in front of the rad slightly to the left. 3. FRONT END; A. 1 5/8 back on RH side and 1 3/4 back on the LH side. B. FPHB, 1 1/4 up at frame and get the axle bracket that has room for a hole to be drilled between the top and bottom holes[use the bottom if you have to]...the bar should go slightly up hill to the frame or level. C. 2 deg less caster than teo says and get the camber back wi 2 1/2" of stagger across the front. D. use 4 wheel brakes, but use high grip pads on the LF and low grip pads on the RF. E. start wi an 1/8 of toe...if it pushes...dont lift...tap the brake! 4. THE REAR; A. move it ahead 1/4 and 1/8 like the front

. B. use the rear pic hole and jamb nut both sides so the pic arm doesn't collapse towards the middle. C. RPHB in the 3rd hole at the rear and up hill 3-5 degrees to the frame adjuster. D. both RRR's in the top holes. E. 5 1/2 - 6 1/2 stagger. F. use 10 and 20# pieces of lead drilled the same so you can move them around. mount 10lbs on the top of the LR rub rail hoop[have mounts on the rh side in the same place] 5. Scale the car like this with 25#s LH weight! 6. Now bolt the weight you need to make weight back on, but try to keep it near the thingy pit[they call it a thingy pit because thats where the thingy goes...LOL], evenly placed and near the center height of the car if you can do it SAFELY!. 7. this should be your base set up! 8. this set up with a 5:28 or 5:22 gear got us fast time most nights for qualifying...drive just under the chip after it hits[5900 rpm] until the turn slows you down. 8. sprint car nights; A. bolt 10 - 20 more lbs on the LR. B. drop the rear PHB down 2 turns. C. raise the nose 2-4 turns. D. 5:42 gear and drive under the chip! won a lot of races on these two set ups!!! 9. some more stuff. never ran a rear spoiler, body and air does matter...80+ mph...hold your hand out the window, thats only about 24 sq inches! just the nose on a modified is about 450 sq inches!!! think about it!!! make the air work for you, not against you. if you have problems getting in, look at the front of the car for answers. problems getting off, look at the rear. problems in the middle, slow down and work on changing the set up if you need to. always start with a tight car[nothing slows you down and tightens your ass like a car that wont turn! but you will chase the ass of a loose car all night and feel like you're going a million miles an hour!] and creep up on turn speed so you can tell wich end of the car is the problem...a balls to the wall 4 wheel drift, push to loose, loose to push, ect doesn't teach you sht and happens to fast to know where the problem is. slow down and get faster as you figure the car out!!! Have fun...and i dont miss the f'n drama at all!!!!! ya bunch of cheaters...LOL!

[fred]

More on the set up: with all your weight back on the car and the driver in it, your car should sit lower and leveler. if you gain more distance on the RH side than the LH side[measure from bead lock to bead lock just for a reference], you might have to put the axles closer to square. i still always ran my wheel base a little shorter than teo said to. btw, since this sht has auto edit, " they call it a cok pit because that's where the dik goes"

[rickybobbyracing]

hey freddy aka chad knaus
obviously somebody is not happy with someone. not sure if this was done to try to hurt someone or just to pat yourself on the back. if it was done to hurt someone, your an idiot. you better turn that eye around so you can watch front and back. if it was done to pat yourself on the back, your still an idiot. that car could have won with a blindfolded rookie (it did). With at least 20k in a crate car, you should be gettin your picture taken more often than not (which was not the case). im sure the average joe thinks that you are god right now, but please inform everyone that 90% of this information and parts came from Advanced Motorsports/Ricky Elliott. looks to me that the mullins ego rubbed off on you.

2006 was a much easier year to win a championship than 2005 and you guys barely did it.

I do commend you for admitting that your set up was for saturday nights and not for the champ show because going off of last years results, you should be working on the car and not typing on the computer.


[glow=red,2,300][/glow]F.Y.I a blind squirrel can find an acorn every now and then

[fred]

While i'm typing, you should be trying to get on comedy central...you missed your calling! no pat on the back, tired of the phone calls, so i posted it for everybody! yeah the parts came from ricky after i ordered them! the info didn't!!! this wasn't done to hurt anyone. i did it to keep the sht even! Jack is done racing delco mods and i didn't go to the track at all this year. Jack and Carl[and the rest of the crew] did it on thier own this year. you're also a few grand high on the $$! so if you race, what are the odds on a whole team of blind squirrells finding acorns....pretty awesome fkn squirrels i think! last, the one eye works good! i don't use it to watch my back though...i just shoot over my shoulder! thanks for the pat on the back, good luck!!!

[fred]

d**n, i just looked, and you regestered today just to say that! and even put your email..............[ [e-mail] ]! i'm flattered! thanks!!

[snowflake37]

IF JACK IS DONE RACING AC DELCO WHAT IS HE GOING TO BE RACING.I DO HIS WEB SITE AND I HAVE NOT HEARD ANYTHING ABOUT THAT.WOULD LIKE TO SEE HIM IN A BIG BLOCK HE IS A GOOD GRIVER